If you work with suits — sourcing, selling, or making them — you’ve probably heard terms like Super 120 or Merino. Most people just nod along. But what does it actually mean for quality, cost, or how that fabric behaves once it’s on the cutting table?
This isn’t a technical piece. Just a straightforward breakdown of merino vs regular wool suits, with a clear look at how wool grades affect everything from price to durability.
You’ll see Super numbers a lot — Super 100, Super 120, sometimes even 150 or higher. That number refers to the wool fibre diameter. Lower numbers mean thicker fibres. Higher numbers mean finer, softer ones.
Here’s the part most people miss: the higher you go, the less durable the fabric becomes.
Yes, a Super 140 feels great in hand. But it’s not made for everyday wear. Factories often steer daily-use customers toward Super 100 or 110. It holds shape better, and you lose less during cutting.
Merino wool comes from a specific breed of sheep known for fine fibres. It’s soft, breathable, and gives the clean drape everyone wants. It’s also more expensive. Most Australian Merino in suiting comes from Australia, where grading is strict and consistent.
Chinese Merino is improving, but still varies more in fibre quality. Some mills blend it with Australian Merino to reduce cost — not a bad move if you’re targeting mid-tier pricing.
Regular wool, also called crossbred, is thicker. It’s rougher, bulkier, and cheaper. It still works in suits, but the hand-feel and movement aren’t the same.
A lot of buyers only look at the price per metre. But that’s not the full story.
Finer wools shift more when cut. That can increase wastage during production. You also need better handling to avoid stretching or distortion. Over time, delicate fabrics may also pill or lose shape, especially without proper lining or structure.
Good mills will test shrinkage, colourfastness, and sometimes even run burn tests or fibre checks under the microscope, especially for large orders.
Here’s what most factories would recommend to those looking for custom wool suits, based on your end customer:
| Buyer Type | Recommended Wool Grade |
| Budget suiting | Regular wool, Super 80–100 |
| Entry-level Merino | Chinese Merino, Super 100–110 |
| Premium formalwear | Australian Merino, Super 120+ |
Higher grades often come with higher MOQs. If you’re running smaller batches or tight on timeline, stocked Super 100s or blended Merinos are the safe zone.
Knowing the difference between merino vs regular wool suits could impact the performance and price of the clothes, and will save you from over-ordering or under-delivering.
But if you’re not sure what grade your next range needs, reach out to us. We’ll help you pick based on target customer, order size, and what the fabric needs to survive in the real world.
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